The grip is what the user sees. The bore is what decides whether the knob stays on.
A knob pressed onto a D-flat or knurled shaft holds by interference. The plastic around the bore is stretched like a ring, and that hoop stress never goes away while the knob is installed. Everything else about the part, from the skirt to the pointer line, is secondary to how well that ring survives heat, time, and the occasional user who twists past the end stop.
The mold works against you here. Melt enters from the gate, splits around the core pin that forms the bore, and rejoins on the opposite side. That knit line runs straight through the bore wall, and it is loaded in exactly the direction it is weakest. A knob that splits at the bore weeks after assembly is usually showing you where the flow fronts met.
The second common complaint is cosmetic. A solid knob hub is a thick section, and thick sections shrink after the skin freezes. The result is a dimple on the top face or a void you only see when a part is cut open. Coring the hub into a sleeve with spokes fixes both, but it has to be designed in before the tool is cut.